Day 21 July 31: Santa Barbara to Santa Monica 93 miles

Left Santa Barbara at 8:30 am. Easy navigation through the city to Ventura, which was 30 miles through the cities and backroads. I think I only rode on the highway for 2 miles!! Nice!! After a few days rest, I am riding really strong today!! Felt great all day!!

What a fast ride!! I arrived in Ventura at 11:00 to stop for lunch. What a nice little town!! I met two nice ladies visiting from Orange County, Cindy and Katherine who were commenting on my bike bag. I told them about my trip so far and about PKD. They asked a lot of questions and were interested in my trip and learning more about PKD. I went in the cafe to eat my lunch and Cindy and Katherine were still outside finishing their breakfast. As I left they said, "Goodbye darling girl. Ride safe!!"

Malibu Beach

It was a pretty uneventful ride today. Very nice-fast and flat for the most part with ample shoulders-pleasant and FUN!! Very little highway riding until I got past Port Hueneme. A little challenging navigating through Oxnard and Port Hueneme then back on the PCH. Fast ride all the way into Malibu, then it got a little more hilly, but still pretty flat.

Rode through Malibu....malibu....malibu....Seriously...I thought I would never leave that place!! It goes and goes and goes forever-27 miles to be exact. It says so on the welcome sign!! It was a little nerve-racking riding through parts of Malibu as the shoulder was filled with parked cars all along the beach with cars pulling in and out and doors opening, etc. While going through the last five miles of Malibu and riding into Santa Monica, there was a traffic jam. I had to weave in and out of traffic to miss cars pulling in and out and had very little space between the traffic lane and parked cars. Finally, the cars were going so slow, I got into the road for the last bit and was fine.

Finally, I saw the ferris wheel on the Santa Monica Pier and found a bike path. Yippee!! But riding on the bike path is no picnic either. It is full of tourists on bikes who ride while seeing the sights and don't pay any attention whatever to where they are going or whether they are in YOUR lane!! I think I would rather be on the highway!! Seriously!! Finally, Santa Monica, the hostel, restaurants, and my hubby there to meet me!! Yay!! The hostel here is VERY NICE!!

Jim and I explored the town and decided on a nice italian restaurant to relax, have dinner, and watch people. We sat outside and ate while listening to a man play the mandolin...he kept playing the same song over and over and over....The food was excellent, but the lemonade was to DIE FOR-homemade with the just the right tartness and a sweet finish!! I had three glasses!!

Jim and I figuring our route to San Pedro tomorrow. We are catching the boat to Catalina!! Yay!!

Day 20 July 30: Cayucos to Santa Barbara 8 miles

Left the beach house at 9am to ride into Morro Bay to catch the bus to SLO town. I hated to leave that beach house. It was so relaxing. Rode my bike (8 miles) into Morro Bay to catch the 12A bus into San Luis Obispo. Enjoyed the ride through town and talking to a busmate about my bike trip. When we got to SLO town, the bus driver said, "Welcome to downtown SLO town."

I was so hungry so I searched the town for someplace to eat. I ended up stopping at "Louisa's Place," a favorite local's breakfast and lunch place. It had a diner-style bar around the kitchen area. Pretty cool place with downhome cooking. I had eggs benedict with home fries and iced SLO chai" tea. The meal came on a big plate and was so messy, the sauce dripped onto the counter!! YUM!!

The server brought my check and asked me what my weekend plans were. I told him about my ride and about PKD. With that, he said, "Well, I'm taking this back then!!" He took my check away from me and came back with a logo cup, bumper sticker that said "I love Louisa's Place," and a $20 bill!! I said, "Really?" He said, "Of course!" and proceeded to tell everyone in the kitchen what I was doing. Everyone said, "Wow!!" That pretty much made my day!! Thanks, Scott!! Visit his website at http://www.louisasplace.net/

SLO town is very nice with lots of shops, but not overdone. Sort of like Port Townsend, only more high end and trendy. There are no big box stores or drive-thru fast food. Nice!!

I had until 1:00 to get to the train station, which was less than a mile from town, so I made a stop at the library. I made my way to the train station and picked up my ticket where the agent reassured me that my bike would be on a rack. I still had some time, so I locked up my bike and walked down to the nearby bike shop to search for a new water bottle. I had three and now had one left. Somehow I lost two of them in Cayucos. I think I left them in the rental car. I ended up buying two water bottles, a pair of new gloves, and a new pair of Tifosi transitions bike glasses.

Back at the train station, I loaded my bike. The conductor reassured me that it wouldn't get knocked around and I had him demonstrate the stability of the bike rack. I saw two more bicycle tourists board the train, but I didn't get to talk to them much. One of them commented on my bike..."Nice Merckx!!"

I have never traveled on a train and I would have to say I enjoyed it more than flying. It's nice to watch the scenery go by and the seats are bigger and there is more legroom. My bike made it to Santa Barbara without a scratch and my hostel was right across the tracks!! The people at the hostel were very nice, but the place was REALLY crusty!!

I went out to explore Santa Barbara and found a nice quiet place for thai food. Pad Thai was OK, but not spicy enough. I'm not complaining-I was hungry-but it wasn't the same as Khu Larb Thai or Bahn Thai. I walked up State Street which is a very trendy shopping area with nice restaurants and wine bars, art galleries, etc. I also walked down to Stearn's Wharf, but not much there except more restaurants. There is a beautiful view from there of the mountains. I spent some time relaxing on the beach and watching the birds in the tidal pools. A blue heron got within 50 feet from me. Some other kind of white birds were doing some sort of courting ritual. And the ducks were sticking up their tails, diving for food and washing their feathers. It was all very peaceful, until...the gulls decided to do a fly-by and poop all over me!! YUCK!! So much for my clean clothes!! I am destined to have dirty, stinky clothes the whole tour!!

Found out I can't check out of the hostel until 8:30 am!! What?!! I have a 90 mile ride tomorrow and need to hit the road early!! Riding to Santa Monica tomorrow where I will meet Jim!! Yay!!

Day 19 July 29: Cayucos (No Riding)



Cayucos Beach and Morro Rock

 Resting....Walked on the beach in Cayucos and walked the pier, taking lots of pictures along the way. Went to the library to research travel plans to Santa Barbara tomorrow. I called the agent at the train station to ask about bike transport who informed me that the route had a bike rack. I said, "Really? You just made my day!" So my bike won't get banged up!! I booked a ticket...$30 to Santa Barbara from SLO town. Joe could not take me to the train station after all, so I will have to figure out transit to SLO town. I called the transit office who told me just what to do. I'm opting to ride my bike into Morro Bay then take the bus from there. In order to get to Morro Bay on the bus from Cayucos, you have to get on the 6:30am. NO THANKS!! I will ride my bike the 8 miles into Morro Bay.

Went to the beach again this afternoon and worked on evening out my biker's tan. I don't think it worked very well. The sun is not the same here. It takes forever.

Back to the beach house for more relaxation, watched a movie, pasta dinner, and had some wine. Time for bed. Have to leave the house at 9am to allow plenty of time to ride into town and get the bus. I don't want to rush to the train station. Besides, I want to spend a little time in SLO town before I leave.

Day 18 July 28: Big Sur to Cayucos (No Riding)

Julia Pfieffer Burns State Park

Drove the car through Big Sur and took my time seeing the sights along the way to Cayucos and San Luis Opispo. Hiked down to the waterfall at Julia Pfieffer State Park which falls 80 ft. down to a turquoise blue cove of the Pacific. There are also lots of interesting rock formations and wildflowers.

I took a second leisurely stop at the elephant seal rookery near San Simeon. These things are HUGE. It is not mating season right now, but the bulls were still barking at one another and practicing their "fighting" while the females basked in the sun on the beach. One little girl said to her mother, "Look at all the rocks..." until the rocks moved!! HA!!

Got myself to Cayucos and dropped my bike and stuff off at my friend, Karrie's beach house then drove the car to San Luis Obispo where Karrie's friend, Joe picked me up and took me back to Cayucos. When I came back, there was a pan of brownies with a note that said, "Please eat these" and a note on the fridge that said, "Eat all you can!" YES!! Thank you to Karrie's last guest!! They were yummy!!

Went to the library to research alternate travel options for what would have been another long ride to Santa Barbara. (I still have a schedule to keep). There's the Amtrak, the County transit, or the Coast Flyer shuttle. I didn't want to have to box up my bike and risk getting it banged up. So I talked to an Amtrak agent on the phone who said that on the "Pacific Surfliner" they have bike racks!! No need to take off pedals or box up my bike. I said, "Thanks so much!! You just made my day!" and booked a ticket. I was told by Joe that the route is much more scenic than the Coast Highway. Joe is to take me to the train station in San Luis Obispo and my hostel in Santa Barbara is right next to the train station. Horray!!

I will rest up and ride Santa Barbara to Santa Monica on Saturday (90 miles, but flat). I want to see all the cool beaches, Malibu, etc. on the bike!!

Took a bath and washed my clothes!! And some much-needed rest and relaxation!! Nice!! Thanks, Karrie!! You are too kind!!

Day 17 July 27: Pescadero to Big Sur (30 Mile Ride to Santa Cruz)

I left at 7am for the 30 mile ride to Santa Cruz, which was flat and pretty uneventful. I had second breakfast at Zacharie's downtown, which was very good! I ran into a man who was riding his bike and struck up a converstation about my ride and the conundrum I was in. He advised me that it was all downhill after Monterey, but I knew better!! (He had talked about how he rode all the way around Yellowstone and crossed the Continental Divide three times)! Perspective!

I got some information at the transit station. But what I wasn't thinking about last night was...how am I going to get from Big Sur to Cayucos-another really long ride?! I cried thinking I was going to be stuck in Santa Cruz (oh, darn) and starting to think I'm not as independent as I thought. This is not fun anymore and I'm so tired. Thinking about my husband and wanting to be home and comfortable. I fear being alone and sick. This trip is much more draining mentally and emotionally than it is physically. This is a good metaphor for my future with PKD. I fear the possibility of living longer than most of my family members. And the fear that if something happens to my husband, who will be there to take care of me if I get sick from PKD? It's possible I won't be able to care for myself if I get really sick.

I decided to rent a car in Santa Cruz. What a nightmare! Of course I didn't have a reservation, so it took forever and a lot of running around town to finally get a car that I could drive one-way to San Luis Obispo. It was also expensive, but at this point, I thought, worth it! Now that I had the car, I did a little sight-seeing. Went to Natural Bridges State Park and drove down the boardwalk. I spotted a mexican restaurant on the boardwalk and I was hungry, so I stopped and got some tamales! YUM!!

I am an Ansel Adams fan and I learned that there was a special exhibit of his work at the Monterey Museum of Art, so I drove to Monterey only to find out that they were only open Wed-Sun (this is Tues). DRAT!!

Bixby Creek Bridge

Drove through Big Sur, taking pictures along the way of the famous bridges and rock formations. I'm so glad I did not ride this road in the state I am in. It is VERY hilly and the road is full of switchbacks and blind corners with no shoulders-VERY HAZARDOUS for bicyclists. I've heard over and over about how beautiful Big Sur is, but the coast is starting to look all the same to me. And I am spoiled by the beauty of the Olympic Peninsula back home. I believe it is truely the most beautiful place on earth and am lucky to call it home. Am I getting a little homesick already?!

At Riverside Campground and Cabins, I was greeted by Pam, a very nice lady who advised me on the sights to see around Big Sur and down the coast to San Luis Obispo. She asked me about my ride and how it was going and congratulated me on making it all the way to Santa Cruz. She seemed very interested and was telling everyone about it and planned on reading my blog. Thanks, Pam for your kind words and sightseeing tips! I'll let you know how I liked the drive!

Day 16 July 26: San Francisco to Pescadero 60 miles

Haight-Ashbury

Powell Street Trolley



 

It took so long to navigate and get out of the city from my hostel downtown. On the way back to highway 1 (The Great Highway here), I went through Haight-Ashbury. What a quirky place! When I got to Daly City, I kept on going on the highway and found out I wasn't supposed to be there. I turned around and found the bike route again and followed it out of Daly City, finally on my way! It took a long time to get to Pescadero. I'm growing tired of riding by myself. It's a lot more nerve-racking navigating, negotiating the road conditions, and dealing with the mental strain of being alone and worrying if I will make it on a long day, find food, or be too tired to go on and be stranded in the middle of nowhereland. I'm learning that I'm not as brave as I thought! It's pretty lonely out here. I had three hills to climb today-the second coming into Montera scared me so bad, I wanted to quit! I've learned to like the hills more because they protect you from the wind. As soon as I crested the hill going down into Montera, I was hit with a cross-wind that threatened to push me into the road, which had no shoulder to begin with. I cried so hard, my glasses were wet and I couldn't see. I stopped at a park, pulled myself together, and pressed on the Pescadero. I'm so tired. I'm not sure how I'm getting to Big Sur tomorrow. In my mental state, I've miscaculated the mileage. But if I can get myself to Santa Cruz (25 miles) tomorrow, I can rent a car there or take a bus all the way to Big Sur. It's an option. Setting out early tomorrow so I can get myself to Santa Cruz and explore my options there.





Day 15 July 25: Bodega Bay to San Francisco 70 miles

Got an early start today at 6am-first light. One day behind. I'm supposed to be in Marin Headlands today then a morning rally at the Sports Basement at the Presidio ground in San Francisco on my way to Pescadero this evening. But I needed a day off. So I am staying in Frisco tonight and going to be late for my own party. But they are expecting me later.

The first part of the ride went very smoothly. Lots of rollers, although some of them were short and steep. But I felt good again. I stopped in Point Reyes Station for "second breakfast" and also got coffee. I am not a coffee drinker, but a lot of cyclists are and now I understand why. It keeps you alert and your attitude strong and improves your performance. So this trip-I drink coffee!!

The second part of the ride started out rolling, then turned very flat for a stretch and I flew. Then.....I got about 15 miles from Frisco and it got VERY hilly!! It took me I think two hours to go the last 8 miles!! I stayed on highway 1 trying to get to the bridge. I felt VERY uncomfortable due to it turning into a freeway with next to no shoulder. I went along for awhile when a CHP pulled up ahead of me and stopped. I stopped and asked him if I was supposed to be here and of course he said I wasn't. I asked if there was a bike path. He said no, but to go through Sausalito. He was VERY nice and directed me to the road to Sausalito and rode me in part of the way. I thanked him profusely and went on my way. The windy road the Sausalito was so steep (downhill) in some places, it was scary and I actually got off my bike and switched-back (walking mind you) down the hill where I could get on my bike again. WOW! Sausalito is a very hip place!! Back up the hill to the Golden Gate!! There were so many cyclists!! WOW!! But a lot of them were tourists and didn't know how to ride bikes. It was very hairy riding across the bridge-not because of the wind or the height, but because of all the crazy tourist bicyclists who were trying to sight-see while riding!! One guy was even filming video with his cell phone WHILE RIDING!! Stupid tourists!!! Sheesh!!!

I finally got to the Sports Basement store at the Presidio where I thought I was going to miss my own party!! Everyone waited for me even though I was about two hours later than I thought I was going to be-and even that was two hours later than originally scheduled!! My friends took me out and fed me lunch then drove me and my bike to the hostel in Union Square. One friend even upgraded me to a private room and paid for my stay!! Thank you!! My bike is secure and I've had my shower. Now I have to see if I can find some dinner. Off to Pescadero tomorrow, then to bypass Monterey to Big Sur. Then I will be back on schedule again.

Three 500 ft. climbes to look forward to tomorrow. But only 50 miles!! Better get my dinner and go to bed!!

Day 14 July 24: Bodega Bay, Rest Day

I still felt very wobbly getting out of bed this morning. Took me awhile to get my bearings. Had breakfast, contemplating whether I should rest awhile and leave late or if I should stay here another night. I was really undecided and noncommital about going, so I decided to stay and take a whole day of rest.

I walked to the store two times-second time to also visit the laundromat nearby. I learned that the laundromat was out of business. So I headed down to the boat yard, which I learned had the only laundromat in town. I REALLY wanted to wash my clothes in the machine!! So I walked two miles to the laundromat! So much for rest!! Along the way, I met a nice man doing some work in his yard, who took me the rest of the way and also informed me that his brother owned the restaurant across the street. So I had a crab sandwich and clam chowder for lunch while I waited for my laundry!

I walked all the way back to the Inn and was tired! So I put in a movie and dozed off half-watching the movie. I must have slept for two hours. Still felt tired when I got up, but soon felt better.

The movie made me think of Jim and made me miss home and wonder why I was here in the first place. I had talked to my grandma earlier as well who was exaggerating the miles I had coming up between the towns I had planned to stop in. (She's one of those people who has to have something to worry about all the time. It's her job)! She kept arguing with me and could find no encouraging words for me. I was feeling extremely emotional today and that didn't help. I must have cried four times today!! Thinking about the gravity of what I am doing and wondering how I am going to make it!! Physically, mentally, and emotionally-this is the most difficult thing I have EVER done!!

I found out there was a bike shop directly behind the Inn where I was staying and he also had an espresso machine!! He gave me some good tips on where to get my stuff done!! There was also a great (but expensive) cafe there. I had my appetite back and was ready for some good food!! I spoiled myself with artisan bread and olive oil; pureed sweet corn soup (which tasted like it was straight off the cob); crispy risotto cakes with chard, chantrels, and pine nuts; lemonade; cheesecake; and finished with a red wine blend. YUM!! Best dinner I've had in a really long time!! Mmmmmmm!!!

Feeling much better!! Bound for Frisco tomorrow!!

Day 13 July 23: Fort Bragg to Bodega Bay 83 miles

Today was rough! I had good intentions on leaving town early and actually left at 7:30, but realized that I left the camera charger at the hotel 5 miles out of town! DRAT!! I called the hotel to see if anyone could get it out to me, but they couldn't leave. So I rode back into town after it and realized that I also left a pair of socks (1 of 2 pairs that I brought). By that time I decided I may as well stop at the Radio Shack, which opened at 9am so I could get a new cell phone charger which I left at the hotel in Garberville!! The bike shop and coffee shop were also right across the street, so I got a cup of coffee and had my bike checked out. (Murphy's law something else could go wrong. I didn't want anything going wrong with my bike). So with restored confidence and no mechanical problems, I finally left town (again) at 10am.

I rode with Matthew and Crystal again for awhile. They also left Fort Bragg late and asked if I knew that it was 95 miles to Bodega Bay. I knew, but apparently they didn't realize. I was frustrated for having to leave so late knowing that I had a long, tough ride ahead of me!

I stopped in Point Arena for lunch and already felt pooped out! It wasn't looking good! It was a long, tough ride and the hills were never-ending! I pressed on, but was starting to doubt myself. I cried multiple times and pleaded with God to give me the strength to get me there or send a nice person the pick me up! By this time, it would be dark soon and I had 30 miles to go! I called Jim several times! I had enough! I was so tired. I felt my body starting to shut down! Wishing someone would pick me up! Finally, 15 miles outside of Jenner, a nice couple in a Subaru stopped to look at the view as I was walking my bike up the hill. I must have looked so pitiful, they scooped me up and put my bike in the back of the car and told me they were staying in Jenner and would take me that far. They introduced themselves and offered me snacks, but I was so out of it, I don't even remember their names, but they are my angels!! We got to Jenner and the lady said, "It's only 15 more miles. We'll just take you into Bodega Bay. Where are you staying?" We saw Matthew and Crystal on the way, also looking pitiful and very tired, but no room in the car! It was almost dark. I felt so sorry for them. I hope they made it!!

My angels dropped me off at the door to my Inn and helped me with my bike. I was so tired, I could barely stand! And I'd lost my appetite-not good!! I checked in, had a soak in my jetted tub, and fell into bed. As I started to drift off to sleep, I felt my whole body twitching!! Contemplating staying put for tomorrow!! I slept until 8:30am (went to bed at 10:30).

Day 12 July 22: Garberville to Fort Bragg 69 miles

Today is another weird-weather day! It started out cold and foggy, but soon grew sunny and I had to strip everything off. Then it got cold again when I approached the coast. I think I changed clothes four times!! I stopped in Legget for food, which the "Bicycling the Pacific Coast" guidebook said had a grocery store, but alas, the store was not there anymore! The place was like a ghost town! Where am I going to get food?! Argh!!

I climbed Legget hill, which is 1950 ft. to the top, but I actually started at 950 ft. The climb was long a tough, but I thought not as hard as the one leaving Crescent City. Either it wasn't as hard or I am in better shape! The rumor in the guidebook about Legget hill says, "Contrary to popular rumor, abandoned touring bags do not line the road, nor are there graves of cyclists who did not make it." It also says that it is the highest point on the Pacific Coast route. I got a thumbs-up from a passing car during the climb and several other friendly beep-beeps!! I saw a man riding a bike up the other side of this hill who looked like a homeless person. He advised me to use both hands on this descent!!

Another hill approaching Westport-500 ft. I climbed up a little then lost my gumption after climbing Legget and walked the bike for awhile. I was hungry, tired, and very probably dehydrated and needed to take it easy for awhile!

I could find food nor water for 50 miles!! I was seriously starting to doubt my sanity at this point! I ran into some NorCal state construction workers and asked them if they had water, but they had none. Luckily, my water lasted until I got to Westport, where finally, I found a grocery store with a deli as well. I was so hungry I went in there and started grabbing stuff-anything to stuff my face!! I ran into Matthew and Crystal again here, who were also commenting about the second hill.

There were more rolling hills down the coast to Fort Bragg. At this point I am sick and tired of hills!! As I was climbing along the winding highway 1 down the coast, a guy who had stopped his motorcycle at a viewpoint said, "WOW! Good job!! Awesome!!!"

Day 11 July 21: Eureka to Garberville 73 miles

Man, am I glad to be out of the hellhole, Eureka!! The ride to Garberville was a weird-weather day. From Eureka almost to Scotia it felt like rain, but was falling fog. When I got to Scotia, it cleared up and was nice, so I started peeling off clothes.

I rode through the "Avenue of the Giants." What a long road that was!! And it was all flat or slightly uphill or downhill, but not enough to stop pedaling-no coasting at all-30 miles of non-stop pedaling, which is actually more tiring than up and down hills or rollers. It started out cold...Brrrrrrr!!! Then halfway through it got HOT!! I started to feel dehydrated and got a little pooped out!! I stopped by the side of the road to "water the ferns" and when I hiked back out, there was a tourist taking a picture of the "Humbolt Redwoods State Park" sign where I parked my bike. She asked if I needed any water. I told her I had some and she said, "Well, could you use some? We have plenty!" It's a good thing I took it because by the time I got to Garberville I was almost out of water! She saved my ass!! I drank 3 full water bottles today (72 oz.) and 2 of those were nuun water. Thank God for nuun. I really needed it!

I met some motorbikers at the vista overlook who commented on my tires and how worn they looked. I informed them that they were brand new and that the front one STILL has part of the bead still on it. I told them about my adventure and they said, "Ride carefully!" That seems to be the comment I hear the most.

I was so hot and tired, I barely made it to the hotel in Garberville. I've never felt so glad to see the crustiest hotel I've ever stayed in. But who's complaining! I have a bed, a shower, TV, fridge, and microwave! I had a nice shower, washed clothes (by hand), and went to the library. Finally a library that is open when I need to go! Had a great dinner!! Eggplant parmesan with linguini-more than I could eat-salad, bread, and lemon drop cheesecake for dessert!! I had the rest of the linguini for breakfast!!

Day 10 July 20: Elk Creek Campground to Eureka 53 miles

This is the day that Bob and Barb turned me loose on my own. I sure enjoyed their company and will surely miss them! Looking forward to the adventure ahead!

I met up with a couple, Matthew and Crystal, who had just left Elk Creek and were also going to Eureka. Matt said that Crystal took a spill coming down one of the big decents in Oregon and got some pretty bad road rash. She had hit one of the many potholes. A lot of the decents are shaded by the trees and it is difficult to see the potholes in the road, so you have to be extremely careful and not take your eye off the road for a second. (No sight-seeing coming down out of the headlands, that's for sure)! We rode together for the first 20 miles. They had come from the Canadian border and were on their way home to San Francisco. The went down the Hood Canal through the Olympic Peninsula in Washington and said that had been a mistake! I know that road well and yes, it is not good for cycling!

I had my first mechanical mishap when I tried to click out of my clipless pedals coming to a stop at an intersection. My cleat screws were loose and wouldn't allow me to click out. I had to take off my shoe and manually get my shoe out of the pedal-very difficult with a loose screw. Stopped in Trinidad for lunch. Neat little town. The waitress reminded me to "ride safe." There is a very beautiful natural harbor there in Trinidad with lots of rock formations and boats anchored in the bay. Goregeous!

I found a really beautiful route to Eureka quite by accident! There was road construction with a right lane closure, which means the shoulder is also closed. But there was a very nicely marked detour for cyclists, which I took through farmland, which was flat and led back to the highway eventually. I so enjoyed this road though that I never wanted to go back on the highway. I'm tiring of traffic noise and negotiating the many on and off ramps. On this route through Arcata, I found the "Horizon Organic Dairy Farm." (You can buy this milk in Safeway)! I got hot riding on this road and my underclothes were wet when I set out. I wasn't wearing a bra, but needed to change my clothes. I was in farm country and there was no one around, so I lost the jacket, stripped off my long underwear and put on my bra and jersey right there on the side of the road! HA! That's rouring. You do what you gotta do!!

I sure have seen a lot of homeless people (some of them on bicycles) and hitchhikers throughout California. And some very colorful people! I think the joke about California having all the fruits and nuts really applies to  NorCal!

Eureka gives me the creeps! It is supposed to be a nice place with Victorian homes, etc. But I guess I must have gone through the commercial part of town and not seen anything nice. This part of town riding on the highway commercial district was very scary. Eventually I got off the highway and walked my bike on the sidewalk all the way to the hotel. I didn't venture anywhere tonight except the grocery store, choosing to stay safe in my room. I did go to Eureka Natural Foods to get dinner and breakfast where I met a nice cashier-a young guy-who asked about my strange tan lines. When I told him about my adventure, he said, "You deserve a hug for doing all this!" and came around the checkout counter to give me a hug! HA!

Never saw Chris and Sanja again after Elk Creek.

Day 9 July 19: Harris Beach State Park OR to Elk Creek Campground, CA 65 miles

Had a nice flat ride all the way to Crescent City before the big hill. That hill was a moster 1000 ft. climb in about 3 miles (7% grade)! It took all my strength and will to climb that bad boy! I was cursing at the top. I almost cried! The decent was fast and COLD!

Barb and I rode to the Trees of Mystery in Klamath, had lunch, and went up in the gondola to the top of the redwoods. We were blessed with a clear day and a great view of the ocean from the top. Somehow we lost bob at this tourist trap and he ended up having lunch somewhere else. Didn't see him again until we got to the campground. The ride in to the campground was hard, going up steep 500 ft. climbs.

We ran into Chris again pulling his bob trailer going to the same campground. He suggested that we take a look at "Big Tree" where we took pictures. When we got to the campground, Bob was teasing us about not being able to find us in Klamath.

At the campground, we decided to take a nature walk before bed where we discovered an ampitheater and a ranger talk about the redwoods and wildlife in the redwood forest. Did you know that the Coast Redwoods can live about 2000 years. There is one that they found that is 2250 years old and 374 ft. tall!

At this campground, we had to lock up all the smelly stuff due to bears-that means food, toothpaste, smelly clothes, etc. The next morning, Barb said she heard some grunting noises during the night. I think she was teasing, but I'm not sure. I slept so soundly, I heard nothing!

Day 8 July 18: Sunset Beach State Park to Harris Beach State Park, OR 103 miles



Me in Bandon, OR

Took an alternate route out of the campsite on Seven Devils Road-yes it has a reputation, but it wasn't that bad. The fifth devil was the worst. Bob and I made the first 46 miles in less than 4 hours-flying low!! When we stopped for lunch, I guess I must have been hungry!! I ordered the chili burger with onion rings. When it came out, the burger came on a big PLATTER and the onion rings were on another plate! Barb's eyes were like saucers and she said, "Are you going to eat all that?" I said, "Well, I don't know, but I'm going to try!" I was so hungry I was shoveling it in and pretty soon it was gone!! I ate the WHOLE THING!! Barb and Bob sure enjoyed watching me eat that thing!!



Saw several people traveling north today. Barb and I stopped at one of the lookouts where I was actually able to go down to the beach and dip my feet in the water! COLD COLD COLD!! We met a guy there, Steve, who had stopped waiting for his buddy, but he must have already gone past! Part of the description of him involved the bike pulling a box with a GERMAN SHEPHERD in it!! Can you believe that! A 100+ pound DOG!! If I was that guy, I would make the dog get out and pull me up all those dang hills!! I wish I could have seen that dog! I would have taken a picture!

Bob and I climbed a 950 ft. hill today. When I got to the top, I was so sweaty, I had to change clothes on the side of the road. Off comes my top (me only clad in a sports bra) when I get a cat call from a passing car! Woo hoo!!


 


The Cure-All: Chamois Butt'r and Beer!

 Barb and I crossed several bridges. Had to walk across the one at Gold Beach, it was so windy! On another bridge a guy blared his horn the entire way across. Up came the bird from both Barb and I!! We went flying down a 6% grade hill! Scary! At the bottom we had to rest our hands for squeezing the brakes so hard!




Beautiful Sunset



Tonight is a treat! We are staying in a very nice yurt with real beds and a heater! This is luxury! After dinner, we all went down to the beach to watch the sunset. Breathtakingly beautiful! The south coast is my favorite with the beautiful rock formations!



Day 7 July 17: Honeyman State Park to Sunset Beach State Park, OR 56 miles

Funny things: Barb hung her clothes to dry in the tent and dripping water all over
                       Bob's sleeping bag.
                       Bob continually losing things.
                       Bob saying, "That pisses me off!" every time we go down a hill
                       and I catch up with him. He's pedaling like mad while I am
                       coasting. (His touring hubs vs. my racing hubs).

Umpqua Lighthouse

The terrain is hilly today. Bob and I climbed up one hill that was higher than the lighthouse below! I had to get into a rhythm on that one-Bill Cosby-style! Every three pedal strokes...one-suck air...two...out on three! All the way up the hill-concentration!!

Stopped at a bakery that had the most sinful desserts! I'm eating a lot these days! For lunch at the bakery I had split pea soup, a turkey pesto panini (a whole one), a "naked" juice, and a slice of marionberry pie. YES! I finally got my pie!! I also bought a HUGE key lime bar (like a lemon bar) to put in my pannier for later. It was HUGE-4x4 square and one inch thick-and I ate the whole thing for a snack later!! The lady at the bakery had a relative or friend who had PKD and was on dialysis for many years who died recently. She was a funny character. When I ordered my food (and added the soup to the list), Barb's eyes got really wide! The lady said to Barb, "Yes! That would be good for her! She needs that!"

The Coos Bay bridge was treacherous! I think it was about 2 miles long and it was VERY windy-so windy we could barely hold onto our bikes-and we were walking them on the sidewalk!! It was a workout just walking the bikes across that bridge!! Before we set out, we waited for a guy coming the other way. I don't know how he made it across. He was riding his bike fully loaded with panniers AND a bob trailer!

I'm finally getting used to sleeping all crammed into a sleeping bag again! Getting tired of traffic noise though-and longing for more of those country roads. Falling asleep to the sound of the foghorn in Sunset Bay.

Day 6 July 16: Beverly Beach State Park to Honeyman State Park, OR 62 miles

First 30 miles were great-just like riding a roller coaster...down a roller in the big ring, then all the way up the next crest in the big ring-barely...then down the next one-all the way to Yachats. The next 30 miles were treacherous to say the least!! There were lots of crosswinds at bridges and around the bays and capes when the road changed direction. The wind was so bad you couldn't even stand up if you were facing the wrong direction, but on the bike, the wind is mostly at your back. Cape Perpetua was especially gusty!!

I lost Barb at some point after climbing a hill and coming back down. I saw her at the top and then she was just gone! (She is a much faster climber than me)! I wasn't sure if I passed her or if she left me in the dust! I waited awhile to see if she would show, then another rider we had talked to before came down the road. He said he hadn't seen her and said if he saw her up ahead he would tell her to wait for me. Sure enough he found her "using" a bush! I caught up to her pretty quickly. From then on, I took the lead.

Heceta Head

The descent from the Sea Lion Caves was pretty fast and hairy-no shoulders and lots of switchbacks. We were on the brakes the whole way down and I was still doing almost 30 mph!! I like to go fast, but I'm trying to be careful!! Another hairy area was the bridge going to the campsite. We had to stay in the road because there were no shoulders and took the left side of the land to prevent cars from passing until we got across. They honked at us twice, but it's actually safer to be in the road then to risk getting BLOWN unexpectedly into traffic by a sidewind.

Early in the ride, Bob and I were discussing the advantages (and distractions) of having a rearview mirror. When we arrived at the campsite, I found one he had bought me in my tent!! I will try it out tomorrow.

At the Sand Dunes Near Florence

After arriving at the campsite, we showered and washed clothes, we went back to the Sea Lion Caves in the car. There were about 100 sea lions down in the cave. Very cool! After dinner, we went and played in the sand dunes for awhile.

Playing in the Sand Dunes

The big joke of the trip now is "When is Vicki going to have her pie?"

Day 5 July 15: Cape Lookout to Beverly Beach, OR 68 miles

Oregon Coast Bike Route and
Three Capes Scenic Route

Today was a day of bests and worsts.

Best: Alternate routes up the headlands. Beautiful views of the ocean, haystack rock formations, and forested roads. Barb and I had a 6% grade up Cascade Head and through Cape Fowlweather. Slab Creek Road up Cascade Head was beautiful-nice gradual climb and a fast descent! When we got to the top of both and high-fived!! Sure was nice to share that experience with someone.

Worst: The climb coming out of Cape Lookout was steep, long, and cold. I had to get off the bike and walk twice. Bob made a comment about the "funny noises" I made when I climbed hills. Much grunting, yelling, and singing...owe o...eooooo (like Wizard of Oz). The fog was so heavy, it was dripping from the trees.

Best: The wind at your back on the flat at 24 mph-hardly pedaling.

Worst: Crosswind going through Depoe Bay. Barb was in front and I had to tell her to pedal harder. I thought I was going to get blown into traffic or blown off the bike!

Best: All the showers in Oregon State Parks are free and the hot water is endless. I shower and wash my clothes at the same time!

Sand Lake Road

North of Sand Lake, Bob and I were riding  and saw sand dunes right in the middle of the forest. Pretty cool! We stopped for lunch in Nescowin, but the only restaurant in town wasn't serving until noon. We decided to wait as food stops were growing fewer and farther between. It was worth it. The food was great! But I ate so much I had no room for pie.

I feel a great sense of accomplishment today! I felt great all day long and climbed two headlands with ease even though the first one was very hard! Feel like I can do anything and starting to feel very fit!!

Met two guys from Seattle who were going to San Francisco-Chris and Sonja. Very friendly guys-hope I see them again.

Vicki & Barb and a Big Spruce

Went to the beach tonight, which was very beautiful and went for a nature walk in the campground. Sure was nice to walk for a change and stretch my legs a little.

A WINDY Day at Boiler Bay

It was an all-weather day...Cool, hot, freezing cold, hot, cool, hot, cold. I changed clothes about 4 times!

Haystack Rock, Cape Kiwanda

Day 4 July 14: Fort Stevens State Park to Cape Lookout State Park, OR 78 miles

Bob rode with me to Nehalem. Our paces matched together very well. All the way to Seaside was flat then it went uphill into the headlands from there. The first one wasn't too bad. The whole way to Cape Lookout, I was trying to find a bike shop to have my wheels trued, but none were open when we went through. Maybe tomorrow.

Vicki & Bob Stopping for a Snack

We climbed two big headlands on the north side of Manzanita. Really HARD!! The first one was through a tunnel. Listening to a semi-truck echoing and lumbering toward you through a narrow tunnel is unnerving to say the least!! The next headland was rewarded with a great view! We stopped at a dive diner in Nehalem for lunch. I was a little irritated that they didn't have pie!

Barb continued riding with me from Nehalem until the end of the day. On the north side of Rockaway Beach is a flat stretch. Barb and I flew at 20 mph with the wind to our backs until we hit Tillamook Bay. Somewhere along this stretch, Barb decided to move over further on the shoulder to get away from a car and ended up in the gravel. She almost went off the road, but hopped a curb just in time! Looked kinda funny from behind! We also found a fork in the road-literally!! Funny!! The wind was crazy around the bay! First this way-then that way! It almost threatened to push us into the line of traffic. It was really hard to keep the bike on the road! We decided to stop in Tillamook for some ice cream. YUM! We also stopped at a bike shop where I had my wheels trued. The guy fixed them in about half an hour! Sweet!

Gravel Road Bypassing
Netarts Bay

Back on the road again out of Tillamook, we followed a road (Renkof road) that the guy at the bike shop suggested over the next headland. It wasn't as steep as the main road, but it added 2 miles to the trip, which was worth it. There was no traffic, but some gravel and a lot of chuck holes, but a beautiful road through the trees and pasturelands.

Pam & Vicki at the Campsite

Cape Lookout State Park, OR

An old grade-school friend just happened to be traveling up the coast at the same time and she was able to get a campsite, so we were able to meet up at Cape Lookout. Had fun talking with her and teasing the kids.

Barb and I teased Bob about losing his headlamp. He has three of them, but couldn't go to sleep until he found it! Fell asleep in my tent to the sound of the pounding surf! Ahhhhhh!!

Day 3, July 13: Cathlamet to Fort Stevens State Park, Astoria, OR 43 miles

Leaving Cathlamet

No break from the wind today! Went to the visitor's center before leaving town to grab an Oregon map (A REAL one).

Ferry at Puget Island

I asked the lady about the terrain coming up. I said, "It's all downstream from here, right?" She said, "Oh no! You have a big hill after you get off the ferry. Boy, she wasn't kidding.

I climbed 656 feet in 5 miles. Had to walk a little!

View From Clatsop Crest

It was pretty hilly most of the way to Astoria. Had mexican food again in Knappe and decided to try the horchata. VERY GOOD!! YUM!!

I met Bob and Barb at the campsite at Fort Stevens to find my tent set up and my pad and sleeping bag in it!! They also made dinner. Another nice surprise is that all the State Parks in Oregon have free showers and lots of HOT water for as long as you want. I milked that one! Haven't slept in a sleeping bag for a long time! A little clostrophobic!!

Day 2, July 12: Yelm/Tenino to Cathlamet, WA 110 miles

Marcia rode with me back to Hwy 507 headed toward Centralia. The wind is HOWLING through the gap. Not slowing me down too much though. What a long day! I ended up doing 110 miles. Hard to get started this morning. The wind kept howling the whole way! I asked God to turn off the wind machine, but alas, He did not aquiesce. Couldn't find my rhythm until after the first 20 miles. Stopped at "Plaza Jalisco" for lunch in Chehalis where I met some people whose co-worker's daughter has PKD. The waiter helped me with the door as I had to take my bike inside. He asked me if I was riding for a cause, so I gave him my information card. He said, "You're doing a good deed. You will go to heaven when you die for saving people." Saw a man on the road to Centralia who looked like Santa Clause walking down the highway with his dog. He waved and said, "Have a good ride!" Stopped near Vader for ice cream and gummy bears. The clerk said, "Hold on now, watch this-here goes the new legislation" and hits the tax key (there is a new tax in WA for candy)!

"World's Largest Egg" Winlock, WA

Lots of pretty pastoral views along the country roads from Winlock to Longview. I stopped in Longview for a late lunch. The clerk asked what I was doing and he said, "Where are your clothes?" I pointed to my bike and bags.

Osprey's Nest on top of a Navigation Buoy
on the Columbia River

The ride on Hwy 4 to Cathlamet was very beautiful-waterfalls and river views. Got lost finding the place I was supposed to stay. Thought I was going to Skamokowa, so I kept going until I got frustrated and called the camp host, who said, "Oh, you gotta turn that rig around and come back. We'll see you soon, now!" I went about 20 miles out of my way and finally ended up in my yurt at 10:30! Thank God for bike lights!!

Day 1, July 11: Magnuson Park to Yelm/Tenino 85 miles

I had a great rally at Magnuson Park. Thanks everyone for showing up to support me and for your enthusiasm. It was very encouraging to me! Left Magnuson Park at 11:45.




Cruised down the Burke-Gilman trail to the Montlake Bridge then on the Lake Washington Loop all the way to Seward Park. A friend of a friend of the PKD Foundation rode with me and Jim to the UW. Thanks for coming with us, Dale. Jim continued with me before leaving me at Seward Park for the push to Tenino. I know he misses me already...I made him cry when we said goodbye!

I'm following the STP route. Pink directional signs are everywhere. EXCEPT when I got to Kent, they disappeared!! So I had to rely on my 2005 STP map. Good thing I had it with me! Also googlemaps on the phone! Pink directional signs resume in Sumner. Some debris on the shoulder-nails, screws, tools, roadkill, and not one, but TWO pairs of scizzors!! These are the things you notice on the bike!! And a great view of Mount Rainier!! It doesn't get any better than that!!

Stopped for lunch at the Royal Bear Pub. The bartender let me keep my bike in the bar and kept filling up my water glass. When I told him about my adventure he said, "Shut Up!!" and gave me a $5 donation! Visit their website at http://www.theroyalbear.com/

Puyallup Valley  is in the lahar of the

last eruption of Mt. Rainier

Starting in Puyallup, the wind started howling. Paul joined me on the Yelm-Tenino Rails to Trails bike path to his house, arriving at 8:45. (Average speed 12.6) A great bed, food, and jacuzzi tub for the night and a TV to watch yesterday's Tour de France stage (Andy Schleck won the stage). Thanks Paul and Marcia for your hospitality. Greatly appreciated!! You guys are awesome. Enjoyed meeting your parents too, Marcia and listening to all the good stories. And Hank-a very nice kitty!!